DENIM PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT GUIDE
How to Prepare a Denim Tech Pack
Starting with an incomplete brief? Jump to the pre-sampling checklist to see what needs confirming before your first sample, or download the one-page PDF. Mark unanswered items as open rather than guessing specifications.
A tech pack is the working record behind the sample. The pattern maker uses it for shape and measurements, the sewing team for construction, the wash team for the finish, and the brand for comments and approval. If those people are reading different versions, the file has stopped doing its job.
It does not need to look perfect on day one. A reference image, sketch or existing garment can start development. The important part is to add the measurements, fabric, wash, trims and sample corrections as decisions are made, then keep one current version.
What happens when you send us a tech pack?
We do not judge the file by how polished it looks. We check whether another person can make the intended garment from the information inside it without quietly inventing missing decisions.
- We separate fixed decisions from open ones: fit, measurements, fabric, wash, construction, trims, size range and quantity.
- We flag conflicts: for example, a drawing that does not match the measurement table, a wash reference that conflicts with the selected fabric, or comments that belong to an older sample version.
- We identify what must be proven physically: handfeel, fit, wash appearance, shrinkage, trim finish and other points that cannot be approved reliably from a PDF alone.
- We tell you what can move forward: what is ready for quotation or sampling, what still needs your decision and whether a physical reference garment would make the next sample more accurate.
An incomplete tech pack can still be useful. The important thing is that open items are visible rather than hidden behind assumptions.
The parts of the file that control the sample
A template can remind you what to ask, but it cannot supply the answers. The actual values come from this style, this fabric and the approved sample. Use the table to see where each decision belongs and when it is normally checked.
| Parameter | What the brand should define | Approval checkpoint |
|---|---|---|
| Product and fit | Category, wearing position, rise, leg shape and intended silhouette | Fit sample |
| Measurements / POMs | Measurement method, target dimensions, before- or after-wash condition and tolerances where appropriate | Fit review and size set |
| Fabric | Composition, weight, structure, stretch direction, colour and intended handfeel | Fabric selection and sample |
| Wash | Target shade, contrast, fading placement, whiskers, abrasion and handfeel | Wash sample |
| Construction | Seams, stitching, waistband, fly, pockets, yoke and visible construction details | Sample review |
| Trims and branding | BOM, material, finish, dimensions, artwork and placement | Trim approval |
| Grading | Base size, size range and grading direction | Size-set review |
| Revision control | Version number, revision date, change notes and approval status | Pre-bulk approval |
Build the file around the garment, not the template
Most denim tech packs need the following information, but remove anything that does not apply and add detail where the style is unusual:
- Product name, style number and product category
- Front and back technical drawings
- Fit description and intended wearing position
- Measurement specification and points of measurement
- Measurement tolerances
- Fabric composition, weight and stretch direction
- Wash, shade and surface-effect requirements
- Construction, seam and stitching details
- Buttons, rivets, zippers, labels, patches and other trims
- Artwork, branding and placement information
- Base size, size range and grading direction
- Packaging and labelling requirements
- Revision date, version number and approval comments
The amount of detail required depends on the product. A five-pocket jean, denim jacket, skirt or garment with specialised trims will not use exactly the same specification. The document should reflect the actual style rather than repeating unrelated information from another product.
Describe where the jean sits before describing its style
Start with the garment category, intended wearer, rise, leg shape, length and wearing position. “Low-rise baggy” is useful language, but it still leaves the pattern maker guessing where the waistband sits, how much room is in the hip and thigh, and how wide the leg should finish.
Use the style words, then support them with measurements and fit comments.
For example, a low-rise baggy jean should define more than the front-rise measurement. The tech pack should also explain the waistband position, waist and hip ease, crotch shape, thigh volume, inseam and leg opening.
Reference images can help communicate silhouette and styling, but photographs alone may not show proportions accurately. Add written comments explaining which features should be followed and which parts of the reference are not required.
For a more detailed fit example, review our low-rise baggy jeans development guide .
Draw the parts a photograph leaves open to interpretation
Front and back flats are usually enough to establish the garment. Add a side view or enlarged detail when the pocket angle, yoke, waistband construction, seam or decorative feature cannot be read clearly. The purpose is not illustration quality. Another person should be able to build the detail without guessing.
Callouts can identify details such as:
- Pocket shape and placement
- Waistband height and construction
- Front fly and fastening method
- Belt loops and hanger loops
- Yoke shape
- Stitching position and stitch colour
- Seam type and visible topstitching
- Distressing, abrasion or repair details
- Embroidery, prints, lace or other decorative features
Use consistent labels so that each callout can be matched to the bill of materials, construction notes or artwork file.
A number is useless if nobody knows how it was measured
Name each point of measurement, show where it starts and ends, and state whether the garment is measured flat, relaxed or stretched. Also mark whether the target is before wash or after wash. “Thigh” can mean different positions to different teams; a diagram and a reference distance from the crotch remove that argument.
Typical POMs for jeans may include:
- Waist measured at the waistband edge
- High hip and full hip
- Front rise and back rise
- Thigh measured from a defined crotch point
- Knee position and width
- Inseam and outseam
- Leg opening
- Waistband height
- Front and back pocket dimensions
State whether measurements apply before washing or to the finished washed garment. Denim washing can affect shrinkage and finished measurements, so the approved physical sample should be used together with the specification.
What should be clarified for a non-standard fit or first multi-size order?
When a denim style relies on a specific body shape, rise, waistband shape, leg proportion or wearing position, do not rely on a generic grading assumption. Define the intended fit in words, identify the base size, list the measurements that control the silhouette, and mark which points need review during sampling. The grade rule should be reviewed against the approved fit sample rather than copied from an unrelated style.
For an early order that covers more than one size, clarify the intended size range, quantity per style, fabric, wash, trims and construction before treating the MOQ as workable. Size distribution and grading are project decisions: they should be reviewed with the actual product brief and approved sample, not assumed from a fixed ratio.
A tech pack can begin from a reference or partial brief, but it becomes more executable when its measurement locations, fit comments, version history and sample corrections are clear. Brands that need help choosing the route can also review our OEM and ODM denim development service.
How should a tech pack specify exact pocket, label and detail placement?
A point of measurement defines a garment dimension; a placement specification defines where a pocket, label, patch or other detail sits on the garment. For placement, use stable garment reference points instead of visual instructions such as “about here.” State the item, the reference edge or seam, and the horizontal or vertical distance used to locate it.
For example, a pocket position can be located from the waistband, side seam or centre-back line, depending on the design. A label can be located from a seam or finished edge. The important point is that another person can reproduce the position from the written dimension without guessing from the sketch.
Use a separate placement drawing when the detail is angled, asymmetric, curved, made of several parts, or cannot be located clearly with one or two dimensions. The drawing should show the same reference points used in the written specification so the sketch and measurement table do not conflict.
If the position should move with size, state how it changes or flag it for review during fit and size-set approval. If it should remain fixed, state that as well. Confirm the final position on the relevant sample rather than assuming one placement rule works for every fit, wash or construction.
How should measurement tolerances be defined?
A measurement table should not only list target dimensions. It should also state the acceptable tolerance where appropriate.
Tolerance helps the production and quality teams understand what level of variation is acceptable around an approved target measurement.
Not every POM necessarily needs the same tolerance. Critical points such as waist, rise or inseam may require different control from smaller decorative measurements.
The approved tolerance should be realistic for the fabric, wash process and garment construction.
When should grading be added to the tech pack?
The base-size fit should normally be reviewed before the final grading is treated as production-ready.
A brand may provide an initial grading direction earlier, but if the first fit sample changes significantly, the grading may also need to be revised.
Once the base size is approved, selected smaller and larger sizes can be reviewed through a size set to confirm that the grading remains balanced.
For more detail, review our denim fit sample and size-set approval guide .
What fabric information should be provided?
Provide the preferred denim composition, weight, colour, structure and stretch direction when known.
Also describe the intended handfeel and wearing experience, such as rigid and structured, soft and relaxed, or stretch with controlled recovery.
Composition percentages alone do not fully describe how a fabric behaves. Two fabrics with similar fibre content can differ in weight, construction, stretch, recovery, drape and response to washing.
The selected fabric should therefore be reviewed together with the fit and wash direction.
If the exact fabric has not been selected, provide a reference garment or describe the required result.
Brands developing flexible denim can review our custom stretch denim jeans development guide .
How should the denim wash be specified?
A wash description should define more than a general name such as “enzyme wash,” “vintage wash” or “mid blue.”
Include the target shade, contrast, fading placement, whiskers, abrasion, handfeel and any visible effects.
Reference photographs should be supported by written comments because lighting, photography and screen settings can change the appearance of colour.
The physical wash sample should be reviewed for shade, surface effects, softness, construction appearance and finished garment measurements before bulk production.
Use our denim wash development and approval guide to prepare more detailed wash comments.
How should trims and branding be documented?
Create a bill of materials covering the fabric and every required trim. Depending on the style, this can include buttons, rivets, zippers, sewing thread, labels, care labels, leather or alternative patches, embroidery, hangtags and packaging.
For each custom item, provide the required material, colour, finish, dimensions, artwork and placement.
Artwork files should match the approved brand design and should not rely only on a screenshot.
For more detail, review our custom denim trims, buttons, rivets and labels guide .
Do you need special software to make a denim tech pack?
No. Illustrator, Excel or Google Sheets, and a PDF are enough for most first denim samples. Some workable tech packs are very plain. The sample room is not judging the software; it needs one clear set of drawings, measurements, fabric, wash, construction and trim instructions.
The trouble usually starts after the first fitting. The waist is changed in the spreadsheet, the pocket position is marked on a photo, and the wash comment stays in an email or chat. If nobody moves those decisions back into the master tech pack, the next sample can be made from a mix of old and new instructions.
Keep one editable master file, add a date and version number, and update it after every sample review. Dedicated tech-pack, 3D or PLM software can help when a brand is handling many styles and approvals at once. It makes the files easier to control, but it cannot repair a vague measurement table or an unclear wash reference.
Do you need to send a pattern with the tech pack before sampling?
Not always. If you already have a pattern that belongs to the current style and matches the measurements in the tech pack, send it. It gives the sample room one less development step.
If you do not have a pattern, the first sample can still start from a clear tech pack, reference garment, sketch or measurement direction. A pattern still has to be made before cutting, but it can be developed as part of the sample process. The brief needs enough information for the pattern maker to define the fit without inventing design decisions.
Do not send an old pattern from another jean just to fill the file. If the rise, fabric stretch or intended silhouette is different, it can create more confusion than starting from the current brief. Mark any pattern as approved, reference-only or still under development.
After a fitting changes the shape or measurements, update the tech pack and the pattern together before the next sample. If one moves and the other does not, the next sample can be cut from the wrong version.
See pattern preparation before the sample is cut
The tech pack defines the target, while the pattern turns the approved measurements and shape into pieces that can be cut. If either one changes after fitting, keep the two versions aligned before the next sample.
Pre-sampling tech pack checklist
Before the sample request goes out, check that the current decisions are easy to find. Open items can stay open, but label them so nobody treats them as approved.
- Style and fit: current sketch or reference, intended silhouette, base size, and key measurements or POMs.
- Pattern status: approved, reference-only, or to be developed for the sample.
- Fabric: selected fabric or a clear direction for composition, weight, stretch, and handfeel.
- Wash: target shade and effects, plus written comments for anything a reference photo does not define clearly.
- Construction: seams, stitching, waistband, fly, pockets, and other details that affect how the garment is made.
- Detail placement: fixed reference points or dimensions for pockets, labels, artwork, and other location-sensitive details.
- Trims: buttons, rivets, zippers, labels, patches, artwork, and any temporary sampling substitutes clearly marked.
- Size and quantity: sample size, planned size range, and expected quantity per style, wash, and colour when known.
- Revision control: one dated current version, with approved, pending, and reference-only items clearly identified.
Need a one-page working copy? Download the printable version and mark each item as Confirmed, Open, or Needs revision before the sample request goes out.
Need the working version for a real sample brief? The full six-page toolkit adds a readiness scorecard, detailed tech-pack check, sample brief worksheet, revision-control sheet, sample-review sheet and final handoff check.
Use this as a final check before sending the sample request. If something is still undecided, mark it as open instead of leaving two conflicting versions in circulation.
The first sample can carry open questions, but not hidden ones
Final packaging and some custom trims may still be pending, but the sample needs enough information to test the intended fit and construction. Mark temporary materials and open decisions clearly, so nobody treats a placeholder button or preliminary wash as approved.
Before the first sample, define at least:
- Product category and fit direction
- Reference image, sketch or technical drawing
- Base-size measurements or a usable measurement direction
- Fabric direction
- Basic construction and major design features
- Wash direction
- Important trims or temporary sampling substitutes
Details such as final grading, final packaging or some custom trims can sometimes be completed later, provided they are clearly marked as pending and are approved before bulk production.
How should sample comments be recorded?
Sample comments should identify the exact sample version, size and review date. Comments should explain what needs to change rather than relying on general wording.
For example:
- Reduce waist by 1 cm
- Increase back rise by 0.5 cm
- Move back pocket 1 cm higher
- Reduce thigh fading intensity
- Change button finish from bright silver to matte silver
Clear comments make it easier to understand which changes belong to the next sample version.
Keep the next sample brief connected to the review
After a fitting, move confirmed changes from comments and photographs into the controlled technical pack before the next sample is requested. Keep the affected measurement, construction, wash or trim decision tied to the garment area being reviewed, rather than leaving it only in a message thread.
For a visual view of how fit, wash, construction and trims can be reviewed together, see the denim sample review evidence hub.
There should be only one current version
Add a version number and date whenever a measurement, pocket placement, fabric, wash or trim instruction changes. Keep a short change note and mark each item as approved, pending or still under review.
Email and chat are useful for discussion, but they are poor master records. Move every confirmed change back into the controlled tech pack and release that version to the people making the next sample or bulk order.
The tech pack and physical sample should be used together. The document records specifications and comments, while the approved sample provides a physical reference for fit, wash, construction and handfeel.
What should be confirmed before bulk production?
Before grading and bulk cutting, the latest approved tech pack should align with the approved physical sample.
Important checkpoints include:
- Final base-size fit and measurements
- Grading and size range
- Fabric and finished handfeel
- Wash colour and surface effects
- Construction and stitching
- Buttons, rivets, zippers, labels and patches
- Artwork and branding placement
- Packaging requirements
- Latest revision number and approval comments
You can also review our denim production and quality review process before bulk approval.
Buyer FAQ: Denim Tech Packs
Can denim development begin without a complete tech pack?
Yes. A reference image, sketch, existing garment or partial specification can begin the discussion. Missing measurements, fabric, wash, construction and trim information still need to be reviewed and confirmed as development progresses.
Does a reference image replace a tech pack?
No. A reference image communicates visual direction but may not define measurements, construction, fabric behaviour, trim specifications or finished wash requirements.
What is a POM in a denim tech pack?
POM means point of measurement. Each POM identifies where and how a garment measurement should be taken so that the brand, pattern team and quality team use the same method.
Should a tech pack include measurement tolerances?
Yes, where appropriate. Tolerances help define the acceptable range around target measurements during production and quality inspection.
Should measurements be taken before or after washing?
The tech pack should state which condition applies. Finished garment measurements normally need to be checked after the intended wash because washing can affect shrinkage and fit.
Can grading be finalised after the first fit sample?
Yes. The base-size fit can be reviewed first, and grading can be revised if the approved fit changes during development.
Can a tech pack be revised after the first sample?
Yes. Fit, construction, wash and trim comments from the first sample can be recorded in a new version. Each revision should be dated and clearly identified.
How long does sample development take?
There is no single fixed sample-development time that applies to every denim project. Timing depends on how complete the brief is, whether fabric, wash, construction and trims are already confirmed, and whether the first sample resolves the main fit and product questions or creates another revision round.
A useful planning question is not only how many days a sample takes, but which decisions are still open before the next sample can be meaningful. If fit, wash, construction or trim details are still changing together, clarify those dependencies before treating the next round as approval-ready.
What is TANTYDENIM’s MOQ?
Standard MOQ is 50 pcs per style and colour. Trial orders from 30 pcs per style and colour may be considered after reviewing fabric, wash, trims, construction and size breakdown. Mixed sizes are available; final workable quantity and colour splits require confirmation. Final requirements can depend on fabric availability, wash, trims and construction.
Still deciding whether your first collection is ready for sampling? Use our production guidance for emerging brands to review feasibility and the decisions to settle before preparing the sample brief.
Send your denim tech pack or product reference
Send the information you already have, including your tech pack, reference image, sketch or existing garment direction.
Include the intended product category, fit, fabric, wash, trims, size range, quantity and timeline so we can begin a focused development discussion.
Review our custom jeans manufacturer sourcing and denim development process or learn more about our OEM, ODM and private-label denim development services .